The Central Otago Rail Trail

Its hot and dry in Central Otago. East of the Southern Alps, this area is in the rain shaddow of the towering peaks, and receives very little rain. An old railway was torn up and turned into a biking trail, and this was my choice of rides. No cars, busses or aeroplanes out here, only bikers and horseback riders.



The hilarity of riding the Rail Trail is how it contrasts to my current geography. The trail had to accomodate a train, and the gradient is no more than 1 in 50- a 2% grade. I am now biking the Banks Peninsula (see the model below). This nubblet of land was formed due to intraplate volcanism about 10 million years ago, and now is just hilly as hell. The elevation map looks like the trail of a bouncy ball, jumping between sealevel and 600m every couple kilometers. The maximum gradient in New Zealand is 1 in 5, and I am sure I have pushed my bike up a fair share of this on the Banks Peninsula.



One morning the sun peaked out from behind the horizon. I spied it from my hammock and was driven to sit on a haybale and watch the glorious event unfold. The resulting day was just as splendid.



I will soon wrap up this adventure and begin another. Life as I know it is about to go into flux...

Coming up: Planes, the Hole, and Production Junction V 2.0

Laid Back Wanaka

I have been presented a dillema. In the middle of the West Coast, another cyclist named Ian had a bit of advise to impart. He told me to avoid the journey from where I am now (Wanaka) across the dry and strait roads to Christchruch, and instead bike south. Perhaps the coast, or maybe to the most southerly point in the southern hemisphere. More on this later...



The transition between bush and dry country was almost instantaneous. I traveled east over the Alps via Haast Pass. The Gates of Haast ate me alive. This section of treacherous road passing over the raging river had an incline that I assume was illegal. Walking the bike was the only option, and after I had a cup of tea to calm the senses.

Things are wrapping up with the tour, and somewhere along the way I lost 2 days. Doh. Maybe the big 3k will be reached, but who knows..

From Sea to Ice

My last wwoofing adventure ended with sea kayaking the Abel Tasman coast. I stayed with a german hippie named Richard Lochner, and worked above the normal wwoofing requirements in exchange for a weekend of travel through the beautiful coastline of New Zealands smallest park.

I laughed to myself when I cruised out of an estuary. "Its the only way to see the park mate," exclaimed Richard when I pushed off. Life was beautiful, and in the Golden Bay, the sun never stopped shining. A seal escorted me for a while, and I camped on a golden sand beach in Mutton Cove. In the morning I puttered along and watched another seal chom down on an octopus.

Opposed to riding New Zealands longest sustained climb twice, (15 km long, 800m tall over Takaka Hill) and backtracking 2 days, I took a bus to the West Coast. I have been quite apprehensive about this journey down the 'Wet Coast' with over 5000mm of rain annualy. So far I have seen about .05 mm HA. Maybe its global warming, or I am one lucky chap, but the sun is shining and I am booking it south.



One of the many spectacular attractions in New Zealand- The Pancake Rocks. Similar to gigantic stacks of flap jacks, this section of quirky coast boasts boisterious blow holes and hoardes of tourists. It was worth the gaggle.



Approximately 4 days south of golden sand beaches, I am approaching the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Above is a sight from a spectacular camping spot where I started crocheting a scarf amongst the sandflies and dastardly Possums, that rooted through my belongings all night long.

The sideroad phenom and the Huia Cave

I chose to bike a sideroad yesterday. The first 10k was shingle (gravel), but coupled with steep banked turns and a constant downhill grade. Among the orchards and pastures I saw my first hops farm. Beautiful fields of strings for the hops to grow up.



I also visited a cave titled the Huia Cave. I chated with an Austrian farmer about the location and a bit about the cave itself. After scaling a little river that ran into the cave I found most of the interior clogged with logs and debris. Some people don't want anything to do with holes in the ground. I am not one of them, and thoroughly enjoy the looming ominious feeling when first approaching an enterance. It feels like there is someone peering out from deep within, and this sensation is thrilling.

Inverse Equal Slog topped by a Japanese Bath House

I left Hanmer Springs, a hotbed of tourist activity, and headed into the wind. I must be developing an ole' timer sense of predicting the weather, and I forecast it to rain. As I slogged uphill all day, the rain fell as well as the temperature. At the top of Lewis Pass, I buckled up for the 6km descent to a japanese style bath house. I could barely pay for the access as my hands were frozen in place.

After a beautiful bath in ungodly hot water I camped with a Tasmanian guy and we ate some pasta. The next day was the polar opposite. I enjoyed unexpected 10 km downhill runs, a massive tailwind and a shining sun to dry my sopping socks and bathing suit.

I've determined biking reflects life, as you will win some and lose some, but as long as you are smiling there isn't anything to worry about.

Arapaua SeaFarm and the Molesworth

The first adventure of the South Island started with a trip on a mailboat to a farm on the tip of the Marlborough Sounds. The Arapawa SeaFarm is a 900 acre farm, cultivating paua (aka abalone) on a small bay facing the North Island. In the picture it is the upper right island.



The day to day activities included weeding tawini, moving wood from a tree that was chopped down, and helping with the three children. All in all it was an epic view, lots of work, and a week to remember.

The next destination was the Molesworth, New Zealands largest farm. At 400,000 acres, this high alpine farm is managed as a conservation area, as well as a recreation area. Although the road traveling trough is only open for a short period starting in December, I applied for a special permit to ride through. One week later I found myself traveling up the gravely road towards the enterance. The road was a mix of velvet dust and splintered river rock.



Smack dab in the middle of the Molesworth I hit 1000k on the odometer. I think big #2 will come much faster as my time on the south island will be much more cycle intensive.

Bye bye North...Helloooo South

A view looking somewhat towards the South Island. I barely nabbed a campsite in a grove of trees near the beach.



Cruising into the South island via the Troy Channel was epic, especially after the hussle and bustle of Wellington, the capitol city. On the prow of the Interislander winds would jar and throw people about, similar to a bumpy ride in a car. It was cold, but well worth the front and center view of the Marlborough Sound.



I made plans for a micro tour around the Marlborough wine country. Vineyard after vineyard, I eventually stopped for lunch at Wairau River estate and splurged for a steak burger. Delicious.



Kiwi birds. Wacky little creatures with no wings. These curious little things were scurrying around my camp, and as you might notice they had no fear of me or my camera. I was awakened periodically by their pecking at my gear. I tossed sand at them in response.

In a couple hours I will leave on a mailboat to the Radon's aquafarm on an island in the Marlborough Sounds. This should be an interesting experience, for there are no roads, and supplies are delivered via barges.

Coming up...Molesworth Station Ride..

Savita- An uncommon experience

Savita is an eco community of a few like minded individuals whom devote their energy to the pursuit of purpose. With grand plans for an earthship that challenges the square, the architectural feat will be home to many flowing curves and well thought out areas.


In the midst of the activity, the Gubbs showed up on their travels as a Targa Rally finish timing crew. I joined them for a morning of timing rally cars as they sped past the finish line. All this was at the base of Mt. Taranaki, and a good day to see the mountain. Bonus Fact: Mt. Taranaki recieves around 7000 mm of rain anually so a good day is a great day!



My primariy occupation at Savita was designing tire stairways and retaining walls. This activity was carried out with the help of 3 other Wwoofers, one named Shun from Tokyo, and a french couple named Rhenaud and Angel. The 'stairway to heaven' is a full 20 steps tall, and consumed about 250 tires. Its a good thing tires are a abundant natural resource of the 21st century...



A memorable moment will be the gorse burn. Gorse is a hedge plant from Scottland that was imported as a cheap hedge. It spread everywhere in New Zealand, and soon the prickly, ugly downright nasty plant covered many hillsides instead of native bush.

The night started with a chant in the meditation temple, afterwhich we equipped ourselves with diesel torches. Atop a hill the torches were lit and 5 of us proceeded to burn as much gorse as possible. Soon enough we were feverishly scampering through goat paths with the flames licking at our heels. It was a task for pyro-oriented tire-obsessed mates pursuing purpose in a community of like minded individuals.

Dr. Melva Martin and her farm

After pedaling through torrential wind and rain storms, akin to stopping ole Lance in his tracks, I made my way along the coast to Waitara for lunch. Coincidentally, this was also the hometown of Dr. Melva Martin, whom I had arranged my next stay with- all things bueno!



Melva is full of determination and spirit, founding and developing New Zealand's first Natropathic College. While this served her well, Melva is moving on to pursue farming blueberries, fejoas, cultivating native trees and constructing a retreat center. Once all the business is done, she will live a 'crusie' lifestyle, which is admirable.



Initial plans were concieved to construct a chook house from tires, building on my previous expereince at the Earthship. However, this plan has developed into a meditation seating area, poised next to the creek and amongst a native tree grove.

Coming up...the finished product!

The Gubbs Earthship

Made from 10,000 or so recycled tires, the Gubbs Earthship is quite a feat of pioneering sprit. 'Kandoit' is the title of their effort and it looks like the project is progressing slowly but surely.



Most, if not all of the Earthship, is created from recycled materials including: pavers, air filters, lumber, cans, and so many more ingenious repurposed materials.

Coming up- A mini earthsip for chooks at the Rainbow Retreat...

Auckland and the little cat

At approximately 5:45 am, the bohemouth 747 shuddered to a stop in Auckland International. After a quick clean of my shoes in the biosecurity checkpoint, I wandered about with a large bike box and duffel, obviously without direction. Soon enought David Stillaman, whom I had met on a cycle touring site, approached me and off we were for coffee and a crossiant.

David has a little cat, which incidentally is its name. To keep things short and simple I'll say adio until I see a house made of tires...

Around the Block

In preparation for a tour in New Zealand I decided to go 'around the block'.



20 minutes into the journey I started up Teton Pass via the old pass road. 15% grades and a loaded touring bike were interesting for my gumby legs, but I made it up fine at barely walking speed. Gotta love the great granny gear, weee.



Borrowing gear is splendid. A friend loaned me his bike from a previous Pan Am journey, and I acquired all the panniers from a local non-profit, Friends of Pathways. The director, Tim Young is an interesting and inspiring individual having ridden around the world.



I stayed the night at Pallisades, approximately 60 miles into the journey. It was a shock to see the resivouir in its current state at 18% of its capacity. If there isn't a monster snow year coming up, this shallow lake will turn into a babbling brook.



The epic vista from the journey wasn't the splendid fields or magnificent color changes occurring, rather it was two moose attempting to ford the Snake River. I happened on this intense moment in the snake river canyon, and witnessed the creatures standing strong in deep waters when the current overcame them. Instinct took over, and both moose avoided the treacherous white water downstream and opted to munch on willows upon exiting the water where they began their journey.